Passion Fruit!

October 6, 2008

Wow! Where did summer go? We finally had some rain the other day and it looks like summer is gone for good (the last rain we had before that was in early June). Along with the cooler weather I’ve been venturing out in the garden a little more. Back in mid-August I had everything in pretty good shape and sat back to enjoy the fruits of my labor (big mistake, as most gardeners know). After that, work and life took over and the garden took a back seat for a while. Come mid-September boy did I have my work cut out for me…

But now I mostly have everything under control and despite my lack of involvement most everything in the garden is thriving (some things are thriving a little more than I’d like).

One neat thing that I noticed a couple of weeks ago is that my passion flower vine has some fruit! Here’s proof:


This is something that I never expected to see but I was pleasantly surprised. There are three passion fruits on the vine right now and they are all within a foot of each other. My best guess is that a pollinator came visiting from a vine up the street (about a quarter mile away). It seems like it’s probably getting too cool now for them to ripen though (the fruits haven’t changed much since I first noticed them). Of course, the vine is still blooming as much as it has all summer.


Big thanks to Carol at May Dreams Gardens for Garden Blogger’s Bloom Day! Here’s what’s blooming in my garden right now (in no particular order):

Yarrow (Achillea)

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Indian Summer’


Nicotiana ‘Fragrant Cloud’

A Dahlia that looks hungry!

Acidanthera (Gladiolus callianthus)

More Dahlias

And more Dahlias (I like Dahlias)


Firecracker vine (Ipomoea lobata)

Candy Lily (Pardancanda norrissii)


Dahlia ‘Lilac Time’


Monarda lambada


Monarda punctata


Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)


Dahlia ‘Sabrina’


Cleome hassleriana


Toad lily (possibly Tricyrtis ‘Tojen’)


Phlox paniculata ‘David’




More Dahlias




Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’


Echinacea purpurea




Plus many more!

Sorry for the overload of photos. It’s my first time. I lost control. Forgive me?

Nicotiana Seeds

August 5, 2008

I’m starting to collect seeds from my Nicotiana ‘Fragrant Cloud’ (I think it’s N. alata) and I thought I’d post some information about the seeds and seed pods.

Both the seeds and seed pods resemble those of rose campion (Lychnis coronaria). And like L. coronaria the seeds pour right out of the pod when they are ripe.

Here’s a picture showing some ripe seed pods. If you look closely at a larger version of the photo (click the picture to see) you can actually see the seeds inside one of the pods.

When the seed pods turn brown you can tip them over and pour the seeds right into a bag or envelope. Here’s what they look like.

This is the first year that I’ve grown Nicotiana. So far I really like it. It started blooming much earlier than I thought it would and it’s still going strong. Plus the fragrance is wonderful too.

On another note, I have to apologize to my readers for wrongfully capitalizing common plant names in my posts. I probably won’t go back and change older posts but I will try and avoid that glaring grammatical error in the future. Thank you for politely enduring!

Herbs I’m Growing

July 30, 2008

I’m growing more herbs than ever in my garden this year. I generally stick to flowers and ornamentals but after coming across some great examples of container herb gardens I was intrigued by the variety of color and texture you can get in one pot using only herbs. Here’s a picture of my container herb garden.

The tall one on the left is Stevia rebaudiana, a great alternative sweetener. The golden colored leaves in the back right is Oregano (Origanum aureum). On the right side (a little hard to spot without clicking through to a larger image) is Dill (Anethum graveolens). In the front is Italian Parsley (Petroselinum crispum). And finally, in the front left is Curry (Helichrysum italicum). The local nursery that I purchased these from had a great selection of herbs and it was difficult to narrow my choice down to these five.

Each one has unique foliage. The Stevia has fuzzy, slightly serrated, oval leaves. The Oregano has small golden smooth (but not glossy) leaves that, due to their color, are very striking. The Dill is dark green and has finely divided foliage like Fennel (which, curiously enough, is only related through the Apiaceae family, not by genus). The Italian Parsley (also called Flat-leaf Parsley) has larger dark-green shiny leaves. The Curry plant is very different with tiny, whitish, leaves. It’s got the shape of Rosemary (only miniature) and skin that’s somewhere between Lavender and Dusty Miller. Here it is up close.

Although the leaves do smell like curry, Helichrysum italicum is not not used to season curries.

Here’s a close up of the Oregano.

I’ll confess that I haven’t put this plant to much culinary use but the foliage sure brightens up this container.

I also haven’t used the Stevia much yet (although we do use several Stevia products in our household). I have confirmed on several occasions thought that the leaves are in fact very sweet tasting. Here’s a shot of the Stevia up close.

In the vegetable garden there’s a bed with a well-established clump of Fennel. Our son, who will eat any vegetable as long as it is picked and eaten in the garden, frequently grabs a handful to snack on. Because of it’s height and dark color it helps provide some nice structure in the veggie patch. Here’s a photo of what it’s up to now.

For some reason nothing seems to grow very well in the bed with the Fennel except for a large clump of Sage (I’m pretty sure it’s Salvia officinalis). I would be quite happy with it even if it never flowered because the foliage is quite handsome.

Other plants in our Southern Oregon garden that would normally be classified as herbs include Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme, Basil, and some self-sown Feverfew (at least I think that’s what it is).

What herbs do you grow in your garden? Which one is your favorite?

Monarda magnifica

July 24, 2008

No, Monarda magnifica is not a new species of Bee Balm, I made it up. It has a nice ring to it though and it made a good title for a post about the different varieties of Monarda that are blooming right now in my perennial borders. I have never grown Bee Balm until this summer. At some point over last winter they really caught my fancy and now I have 4 different varieties scattered throughout my garden. So far all have been easy to grow and are doing well in our climate.

I’ll start with Monarda didyma (I’m saving my favorite for last). Here is M. didyma ‘Raspberry Wine’.

This plant has by far performed the best in the M. didyma group. I attribute it’s success to a few factors:

  1. I think I planted this one at the perfect time this spring when it was just warm enough to start growing but cool enough for it to get established before the summer heat.
  2. I bought it at a local nursery and the plants were relatively large and healthy; the earwigs were not able to eat it to the ground like they did M. didyma ‘Jacob Kline’ (below).
  3. I planted these in a bed that I renovated over the winter. This bed received about 6 inches of fresh compost which was mixed to a depth of about 1 foot.

The other thing that I really like about ‘Raspberry Wine’ is that about 20% of the blooms are ‘double decker’ like the one in the photo above. When I saw this in photos over the winter I wasn’t sure if I would like it but after seeing it up close in my garden I have to say that I like the look. It’s pretty subtle anyway and you only notice it when you’re up close.

The next subject, and the one that I wanted from the catalogs most of all (at first), is M. didyma ‘Jacob Kline’. This one really excited me because of it’s bold red color and it’s height (can grow 4-5 feet tall). It hasn’t performed nearly as well as ‘Raspberry Wine’ but I wasn’t expecting any real show from any of these until next year anyway. The one ‘Jacob Kline’ that did get planted in nice compost enriched soil was a little on the smaller side and was eaten to the ground by earwigs so it has some excuses for being a little sparse. Here’s a photo of how it looked this morning:

One thing I’ve noticed (and I knew this before I had purchased any of these through my research) is that Bee Balms like regular water to look their best. They seem to be a little drought tolerant (depending on how you define drought) but the plants that I have on regular drip irrigation definitely look better than those that are not.

Now for Monarda lambada. I saw this one advertised in the Blue Stone Perennials catalog and I really liked the looks of it. Then, while visiting a local nursery in late December, I found a pack of seeds for M. lambada. (Side note 1: it’s not only because I’m obsessed with gardening that I would visit a nursery in the middle of winter, around here our winters are pretty mild so there actually are some things for sale. Side note 2: I can’t pass a display of seeds without picking up a pack or two, even if it’s not even close to the time to sow for the seeds I’m buying. Anyone else have this problem tendency?) I sowed the seeds in January along with the other seeds that I was starting using the winter sowing method (see here for more on how that went). To my delight, the seed pack was right and they are now blooming in their first season.

Out of all the Bee Balms that are in my garden, I have the most of M. lambada (with winter sowing you usually end up with a lot of plants). Almost all of them are doing quite well. I killed a few because I put them in spots that were too dry and then forgot to water them enough. M. lambada is also quite short compared to M. didyma (the tallest is probably a little less than 3 feet). I love the spots that you can see on the flowers when you look at them up close.

Another Monarda that also has spots on it’s flowers is also my favorite: Monarda punctata.

When I saw it’s photo in the catalog it was love at first sight. From a distance it’s not particularly showy but up close this is definitely one of the more interesting flowers in my garden. For a Bee Balm, there are a lot of colors involved. There’s the yellow flowers with red spots supported by purplish leaves that grow atop green leaved stems. Farther down, the stems even take on a darker reddish/purple color.

This plant gave me quite a bit of stress earlier in the spring. When it arrived (through the mail) it was totally out of it’s pot and one of the two main stems was almost totally broken off. I put the broken stem in a cup of water hoping that it might sprout some roots in case the rest of the plant didn’t make it. It took the main plant quite a while to get established and start growing but eventually it did (the earwigs left it alone for some reason). The cutting eventually just rotted in the glass and it ended up in the compost bin.

Well, that wraps it up. There would have been another, M. didyma ‘Coral Reef’, but despite what the tag says the plant I ended up with is definitely not ‘Coral Reef’ (which has pink flowers). I think it’s another ‘Jacob Kline’ which is fine with me. If you don’t have any Monarda in your garden I heartily recommend adding any of these great perennials, the hummingbirds will thank you for it!


July 21, 2008

As the mid-summer blooms start there’s still a show (at least in photographic form) from some of the spring blooms. The Alliums (Purple Sensation) are still putting on a show:


And so are the Poppies in the wildflower bed:


Last fall I purchased and planted a single bulb of Fritillaria imperialis ‘Lutea Maxima’. It was planted in a container on our back patio. I was very surprised by how early it sprouted (if I recall correctly it already had flower buds when the crocuses were blooming). After learning that the Crown Imperial Fritillary is pollinated by birds in its native habitat I decided to give it a hand (or actually, a Q-tip) to see if I could get it to produce seed. A month or two after it finished flowering I ended up with a single seed pod. It was quite interesting watching as the whole plant turned brown and went dormant while the seed pod stayed quite alive and green.

Patiently I waited for the pod to fully ripen. It seemed like it took a long time. Eventually though, it did dry out and crack open (about 3 weeks after the photo above was taken).

And finally, here’s what the seed and the inside of the pod look like:

Hopefully successful germination will be the topic of a future post!

Hymenocallis Timelapse

June 24, 2008

I’ve been meaning to experiment with the interval timer on my camera for quite a while. My first attempt was a failure because I forgot to put the cap on the viewfinder which allowed sunlight to enter and throw off the light meter. The other day I noticed that the second bud on our Peruvian Daffodil was about to open so I brought out the camera for a second try. This time I remembered the viewfinder cap and everything turned out much better. The shots were 30 seconds apart and I had it shoot 200 frames for a total of 100 minutes. The following video shows the whole thing about 720 times faster than it happened on our back porch.

Just when you think you’ve got everything figured out your garden (or in this case your 3 year old child) is right there to set you straight. In my winter sowing post I had mentioned that the Campanula medium seeds seemed to produce a plant that did not look like Canterbury Bells. Well, it turns out that the C. medium seeds shared a tray with the Apple Blossom Candytuft (Iberis umbellata) and when I made my map of which seeds were sown where I switched the two sides. I probably would never have figured this out if it hadn’t been for my son who saw the flowers and said ‘Hey dad, look at that Candytuft’ (his favorite flower so far this year has been the evergreen perennial Candytuft). I did a double-take and then realized within a few nanoseconds that he was totally right. So here it is in its full glory, Iberis umbellata ‘Apple Blossom’.

Winter Sown

June 11, 2008

This year I tried winter sowing for the first time. The process was almost completely care-free and produced wonderful results. Here’s what I did:

I sowed almost all of my seeds by mid January using aluminum casserole/lasagna trays from my local grocery store (the kind with the clear plastic snap-on lids). For drainage I cut several slits in the bottom each tray. I also made several holes in the lids to allow for airflow. After preparing the trays I filled them with potting mix up to about a half inch from the top (nothing special, I used the Miracle Grow brand). I then moistened the mix and spread the seeds on top. Each tray was finished up by spreading a little more mix on top. The depth of this last layer was dependent on the seeds; some seeds don’t like to be covered because they need light to germinate. I placed the trays out in the garden in an area where they would get plenty of rain and light without getting in the way. After that, they pretty much take care of themselves!

One of the trays had Echinacea purpurea seeds I collected the previous fall. Here is what they looked like about 2 months later (early March):

The amazing thing is that even though we continued to have hard freezes through both March and April none of seedlings were bothered at all!

Once the seedlings had one or two true leaves it was time to transplant them into larger containers so they could continue growing. I had a few 4” nursery pots lying around but nowhere near enough to accommodate all of the seedlings waiting in the casserole trays. I ended up buying a pack of 200 plastic party cups (16oz I think, about $20). Of course, party cups don’t come with drainage holes so I spent quite a bit of time poking holes in the bottoms. Here’s about half a trays worth of Echinacea transplanted into the cups:

I ended up filling all 200 cups with Echinacea seedlings from a single 13×9 tray! Of course, not all of them survived to be planted in the garden but in the end about half of them did, which is still a lot. I haven’t quite figured out why so many didn’t make it but my best guess is that the drainage holes in the cups were not large enough to keep the potting mix from clogging the holes thus preventing excess moisture from passing through. The Echinacea that I transplanted into nursery pots did much better.

Here’s one of the seedlings a few days ago (about 5 months after sowing the seeds):

Here are the other plants that I attempted to start, along with notes on the outcomes:

  • Alstroemeria (Dr. Salter hybrids): successful.
  • Aquilegia (various): successful.
  • Astilbe: a couple seeds germinated (I think) but they didn’t make it.
  • Campanula medium: most were killed because I left the tray out in the hot sun.
  • Coreopsis: successful, already blooming!
  • Echinacea purpurea: successful.
  • Hemerocallis (Day Lily): successful.
  • Iberis umbellata ‘Apple Blossom’: successful, already blooming!
  • Leucanthemum (Shasta Daisy): successful.
  • Liatris: no germination.
  • Linum perenne (Flax): successful.
  • Lupine (Russell hybrids): successful.
  • Molucella laevis (Bells of Ireland): successful.
  • Monarda lambada: successful.
  • Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’ (Black-eyed Susan): successful.
  • Rudbeckia hirta ‘Indian Summer’: successful.
  • Salvia azurea: successful but didn’t transplant well.
  • Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’: no germination.
  • Tricyrtis hirta ‘Myazaki’: no germination.
  • Veronica spicata: many damped off in tray, the rest died after transplant.

Overall, I’m very happy with the outcome. I will definitely do some more next year. Here’s how some of the graduates are doing:

Iberis umbellata

Coreopsis spp.

Molucella laevis

Monarda lambada

Rudbeckia hirta

Salvia azurea

In terms of budget gardening this method makes a lot of sense. Taking the Echinacea as an example, I spent $0 on seeds (gathered them from the garden), about $0.50 on the tray, about $0.10 worth of potting soil, and $12 on cups. Approximately 100 plants survived transplanting (about half died) so each plant ended up costing me about 13 cents. I don’t count the time spent because I like spending time in the garden. That’s a heck of a deal considering most perennial catalogs carry E. purpurea for $5-10 each.